Journey to the East

“Don't Die Before Going to Banda Neira” Sutan Syahrir.

Spice Center and Power Struggle. The natural beauty of the Eastern Indonesian coast is unparalleled, and Banda Neira is one of its most beautiful gems. The island is like heaven falling to earth, mesmerizing anyone who looks at it. However, behind its charm, Banda Neira is a silent witness to the long journey of the spice trade and power struggles that shaped world history.
Since ancient times, the Banda Islands have been the only source of nutmeg (Myristica fragrans) and mace, highly prized spices sought after in Europe and the Middle East. Arab and Chinese traders had made Banda Neira a major trade route, until the arrival of the Europeans changed everything.

The Portuguese first arrived in 1512 with the intention of monopolizing the nutmeg trade, but failed in the face of local resistance. Later, the Dutch through the VOC (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie) began a brutal expansion in 1609, culminating in the Banda Massacre of 1621 under Jan Pieterszoon Coen. The Banda natives were driven out or made slaves, while outside laborers were brought in to manage the nutmeg plantations.  The conflict did not stop there. The British and Dutch competed for control of the islands, until finally the Treaty of Breda (1667) established Banda as fully under Dutch control, while the British got Manhattan Island (New York) instead.
After the VOC monopoly era ended, Banda Neira remained the center of nutmeg production until the 19th century. During the colonial period, the island was also a place of exile for national figures such as Mohammad Hatta, Sutan Sjahrir, and Tjipto Mangunkusumo. Today, Banda Neira is known as a historical and ecotourism destination, where traces of its spice glory are still felt among the old forts, exile houses and stunning underwater beauty.

Banda Neira has a long history as a center of the spice trade that was fought over by Europeans. A massive Dutch massacre in the 17th century changed the demography and culture of Banda. To this day, Banda Neira remains an important silent witness to the history of colonialism in Indonesia and the legacy of global trade.